Monday, 31 May 2010

Terry de Havilland

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Terry de Havilland. Photographed by Andrew Crowley.

My absolute favourite shoe designer, Terry de Havilland, was given the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Drapers Footwear Awards in London this past week. My love of his shoes is well-documented on this site, especially in my post about my favourite shoes last week. He definitely deserves the honour, especially since de Havilland is still creating and producing today, fifty years after getting his start in the business.


The Sole of Fashion
Hilary Alexander

Terry de Havilland, the British celebrity shoemaker, was given the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Drapers Footwear Awards, in London, last night (May 27th). The award recognised his extraordinary half-century in shoe-business and his contribution to the world of fashion.

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De Havilland first became famous in the 1970’s with his King’s Road store, Cobblers, which was besieged by the likes of Bianca Jagger, Elton John, Shirley Bassey and Rudolph Nureyev. Everyone wanted De Havilland’s tiered, serpentine wedges and platform boots, in gleaming metallics, psychedelic colours and neon-snakeskin.

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More recently, the shoemaker became the ‘comeback kid’, famously designing the shoes for the late Alexander McQueen’s Central Saint Martins graduate catwalk show in 1992, and for the action-actress, Angelina Jolie, in ‘Tomb Raider’. His retro flair soon attracted the likes of Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Naomi Campbell, Cheryl Cole, Kylie Minogue’s Madame Tussauds waxwork, and Amy Winehouse.

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De Havilland, now 71, has been making shoes since he was five yearsold, when he used to help out in the family business, Waverley Shoes. He still designs custom-made pieces and recently launched a new ready-to-wear line.


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Some pieces from his new RTW line.

Photo of the Day: Gary Winogrand & Ossie Clark

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Garry Winogrand, Woman and Man Dancing, Hands at Same Position.

As I've long been a fan of Garry Winogrand's classic American street photographs (Winogrand: Figments From The Real World is one of my favourite photo books), I was excited when I came across this undated photo of a woman wearing a rather iconic Ossie Clark dress. This dress was photographed by Norman Parkinson for a 1969 editorial in British Vogue, and this photo is also included in The Ossie Clark Diaries: In Doze Days. One of his most flattering designs, this wrap dress was made in many different fabrics (I have it in cream brocaded silk) but the very graphic zigzag pattern seen here, by Celia Birtwell, enlivens it, taking it from pretty to pop.

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Last year this same dress turned up on eBay, but it sadly sold for far more than I could ever afford. Hopefully someday I will find it again to add to my collection.

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Sunday, 30 May 2010

Summer Lovin'

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Perfect summer dressing from the Danish magazine, Costume. The crown above is exactly what I want to wear for my far-off wedding- rather gorgeous, isn't it?

Photographer – Henry Moshizi
Stylist – Maiken Winther
Hair/Makeup – Lasse Pedersen
Model – Iza Olak
Producer – Thomas Wadensten

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Fashion Gone Rogue

Photo of the Day: Sheila Metzner

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Sheila Metzner- Rebecca, Marlo's Flowers. From Vogue November 1984.
Objects of Desire: Sheila Metzner Photographs.

Saturday, 29 May 2010

RIP Dennis Hopper

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RIP Dennis Hopper- a truly great photographer, filmmaker and actor.

Friday, 28 May 2010

Lisa Marie Fernandez

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Elisa dress.

Last month I was at a party when I was introduced to a beautiful woman dressed in the most amazing body-con dress. As a trend I am rather over the whole body-con, Herve Leger trend, but this one was very flattering and with an ingenious cut that seemed to hug the body without seeming overly constricting. As it happened she was the designer of this hot dress, Lisa Marie Fernandez. A stylist turned swimwear designer, she launched her first small collection of dresses this winter. Made from a luxe neoprene she helped to develop, the fabric sucks in the body to create a smooth silhouette. Unlike any neoprene I've ever seen before, it isn't stiff and foam-like as wetsuits often are- it almost has a felted, velvety texture. Her designs are now available on her website and on Net-a-Porter (though sadly the long-sleeved one I saw her in is for next season), and at some point I will have to get one- though I can't decide which one...

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Farrah maillot.

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Lisa Marie dress.

Photo of the Day: Linda Ascher dress

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Linda Ascher dress. Photographed by Barry Lategan, British Vogue, June 1969.

Thursday, 27 May 2010

House of Lacroix sale

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GAROUSTE & BONETTI QUATRE CHAISES, 1987
A SET OF FOUR BLACK LACQUERED SYCAMORE CHAIRS, THREE WITH BLUE UPHOLSTERY AND ONE WITH ORANGE UPHOLSTERY
Sold for 5,000 EUR


Yesterday, in Paris, Sotheby's held an auction of all of the furniture from Christian Lacroix's haute couture salon. Designed by Garouste & Bonetti, the French design company, in 1987, all of the pieces are whimsical and seem like they would be the perfect backdrop for Lacroix's fantastically romantic creations. All of the lots sold, many well above estimate, but likely well below their original costs and not nearly a drop compared to House's debts, which are into the tens of millions of Euros. I'm still holding out hope that Lacroix will find some way to come back to fashion, even if it is not in a couture capacity though that is where is genius really lies.

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GAROUSTE & BONETTI CANAPÉ, 1987
A WAVY-SHAPED LINEN AND VELVET SOFA WITH TWO MATCHING PILLOWS
Sold for 4,750 EUR


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GAROUSTE & BONETTI ENSEMBLE DE HUIT CHAISES, 1987
A SET OF HEIGHT SYCAMORE CHAIRS, FOUR WITH PINK UPHOLSTERY AND FOUR WITH MAUVE UPHOLSTERY
Sold for 11,250 EUR


Photo of the Day: Mateus Rosé

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Sarah Moon, Mateus Rosé advertisement. Found in British Vogue, November 1973.

Wednesday, 26 May 2010

Dream Home: John Holmes' 70s Masterpiece

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Home of art director John Holmes, and designed by William Kirsch, is made entirely fr. used parts: (L-R) Kathleen, Tavia and John relaxing on a second-hand wicker couch in the living room.

I honestly cannot think of a home I would be happier moving into than this one. It was designed in the early 70s by William Kirsch for John Holmes, an art director best known now for the cover of the original paperback of Jaws. Built in northern California, all of the materials for the house were reclaimed and it included 85 stained glass windows. These photos were taken in 1972, but I can't help wondering whether this house is still standing- I'm pretty sure I would move to California just to live in it. I love everything down to his wife's amazing skirt and the adorable dresses on his daughters.

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Here Holmes' image is reflected in a living room mirror.

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Here Kathleen cooks dinner in the kitchen.

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Here Holmes' daughter Tavia enjoys lunch by her favorite window.

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Here, the wooden double doors came from a fraternity house at Stanford.

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Here the stairwell as shot from below.

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Here daughter Michelle hangs onto railing made from chicken coops to peer outside.

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Home of art director John Holmes, designed by William Kirsch, is made entirely from used parts incl. 85 stained glass windows.

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Kathleen Holmes rocking daughter Michelle to sleep in a bedroom.

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Here a wooden sun was carved as a personal signature by one of the five carpenters that worked on the house.

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Here a glass bubble serves as a birdhouse (though the bird pictured is stuffed).

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Here daughter Tavia is taking a bath.

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Contractor Don Umphrees, building inspector Henry Anderson, Kirsch, Holmes, civil engineer Edward Beattie and mechanical engineer Robert Ritter standing in stained glass doorway.


Additional information, January 2012: Thanks to a blog reader, Prince of Cathay, I now know that this home "won the Sunset Magazine home of the year award, and was also featured in Life Magazine. People would come and knock on the door and ask to see their home. Too much attention... and somewhat impractical to raise the two little girls! They sold it, and two weeks after it was sold it burned to the ground. John and Kathleen have since built another masterpiece in the hills above Sonoma State University!"

So upsetting to hear it burnt down! Hopefully I can track down some images of their new home.

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

Photo of the Day: The Russian Collection

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Yves Saint Laurent's Russian Collection, 1976.

Hello Shoe Lover

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The lovely Becka, at Smashingbird, tagged me for the Hello Shoe Lover award where one must show off seven of their favourite pairs of shoes and then tag seven more bloggers to do it. As I have a rather unhealthy love of my shoes it seemed like a fun thing to do while cleaning my closet, and I followed Becka's lead and took the photos using my iPhone.

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I have so many pairs of Terry de Havilland's, in every possible colour, but these are my absolute favourites, the wave Margaux's in black, as they go with everything.

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The most comfortable ankle boots ever, I wore this Topshop pair through snowstorms, rainstorms, everything.

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The colour is a little hard to tell here but these Marni babies are slate-blue python with brown leather and a wooden platform sole. I wanted to buy them at the Harrods Xmas sale in 2008, but bought a Christopher Kane dress instead- I couldn't stop thinking of them and happily six months later I came across the last pair of them at the Selfridges summer sale- fate, right?

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The PHI creeper booties were another dream shoe for me- I obsessed over them but they were over $900 on Net-a-Porter so it seemed doomed. When I heard they were going out of business I figured that they were would be none left, since they were so iconic, until my best friend called from the closing sale saying they were selling for $100. Needless to say I jumped in a cab and ended up buying the pair that Freya wore in the runway show.

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I can't even remember what year these Miu Miu shoes are from (2002? 2003?) but I adore them. I've only worn them once and I haven't worn shoes without a platform in years, but the robin's egg blue and ornate trimming are perfect for any Marie Antoinette fantasy. If Terry de Havilland doesn't make make a bespoke pair of platforms for my someday wedding, than I will probably wear these are my 'something blue.'

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Prada black suede and lizard platforms with French jet beaded detail at the front.

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These are the only vintage pair of Terry de Havilland's I have- royal blue, silver and mint green metallic snakeskin. While they are a little worse for wear in some places, they are still comfortable almost forty years later.

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It was so difficult to choose just seven pairs, especially from my TDH's- I have around eleven pairs and I'm always snooping around on eBay for more...

The seven bloggers I would like to nominate for the Hello Shoe Lover award are:
* Miss Peelpants
* I Love Cat Party
* Liebmarlene
* July Stars
* Chromium Dumb Belle
* Violetville
* Julia Bunny

All photos by Laura McLaws Helms, 2010.

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